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PLEASE do not copy any other artist’s patterns, including mine. There are plenty of pattern books you can purchase to create pieces for personal use. If you plan on selling your work, I suggest you start designing your own patterns. Here are a couple pattern book options:
A ruler will help with drawing straight lines in patterns, and cutting straight lines in your glass and a square will help keep your piece square when creating panels.
A light board is a must if you want to trace your patterns or photos when creating a pattern with.
Pattern shears are not the easiest to use, and I don’t use these very often unless I’m creating a bigger piece that needs to be an exact size. These shears are double bladed and cut an extra bit off your pattern to save time grinding down the road or you can just use regular scissors.
Glass Cutting and Grinding
I personally love Stoggles and they’re prescription friendly. I’ve used this brand too and they’re decent for the price. ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN CUTTING GLASS AND SOLDERING! I used to not wear them every time and I had a shard of glass land in the corner of my eye, and almost had solder pop into my eye also, it hit my cheek instead. I was dumb, don’t be like me!
You’ll obviously need glass to get started on your stained glass journey. Picking out glass is by far one of my favorite parts. I would be doing you a disservice if I linked glass from amazon, so I suggest finding a glass store near you or ordering from an online store like Delphi, Franklin Art Glass, or Anything in Stained Glass (which is my go to).
A glass organizer is a great thing to have when working on projects involving several colors. I keep mine right next to where I cut glass and have whatever colors I need sitting in this rack for easy access.
For tracing your pattern onto glass. You can use thicker sharpies or thinner, which I prefer. However, thicker is easier for starting out. These click sharpies are life savers so you don’t have to keep taking off the top! Paint pens work well for this too.
This waffle grid makes cutting your glass so much easier. The small scraps and shards will fall into the grid so when you go to cut your next piece, your glass will lay flat and not get scratched by the small shards.
THE Grinder is what I have, and yes, that’s the actual name of it! It is super easy to clean and I love it. Here’s a few other types of grinders, the Inland and the Gryphon. I’d do some research or watch a video of someone using the grinders to see which grinder would be best for you!
STUDIO PRO FOIL IS NOT GOOD FOIL! Edco is the best in my opinion. There are several sizes and colored backing of copper foil that will change depending on what glass and patina you want to use, so I listed the main 3 for both. For sizes: 7/32 (I use this size the most), 3/16 (for skinnier glass), and 1/4 (for thicker glass). For colored backing: Silver backing for no patina, black backed for black patina, and copper backed for copper patina. Here are the links! 7/32: Black, Silver, Copper, 2 pack Copper (this is a cheaper option for copper backed foil) Edco 3/16: Black, Silver, I couldn’t find a link for 3/16 copper foil Edco 1/4: Black, Silver, Copper
You’ll use this fid to burnish, or rub down, the copper foil onto the edges of the glass.
You’ll need an exacto knife to trim the little “tails” on the copper foil where it overlaps.
I have a clipboard that I stuck an adhesive cork sheet to that I use to burnish my glass on. When burnishing, you don’t want to push down too hard on your glass on top of a hard surface. So having the cork padding on a clipboard, or something similar, is a great way to avoid that.
Like I said with the glass above, I suggest you go to a local glass store or order this from an online glass store like Delphi or Anything in Stained Glass. I recommend a little research for this too, as there are lots of different sizes and types. I use 3/16 square U came for framing bigger pieces, or 3/32 round U for smaller things. I really don’t use it a lot and typically stick to the copper foil method.
Protect your hands from all of the harsh chemicals! I wear these rubber gloves when soldering, washing, and adding patina to pieces.
Cleaning and Finishing
You’ll need this to neutralize and remove flux from pieces after soldering. 8oz bottle, 16oz bottle (better deal). Personally, I use flux remover after soldering, and again after scrubbing pieces with steel wool.
Add a bit of the flux remover to a bottle with water to make it last longer! Plastic bottle and a glass bottle if you want to be nicer to the environment I re-used an old spray bottle that was lying around, so I recommend you do that if you can!
0000 steel wool for scrubbing those solder lines after cleaning with the flux remover and drying. Scrub them until they’re as shiny as can be!
This wax is specifically for stained glass, Liva, but I personally just use Turtle Wax. Any carnauba wax will do!
I use a microfiber cloth to buff the wax off of pieces once the wax has set. I like the fluffier style cloth in a lighter color so I can see what I’m rubbing off, and once nothing seems to be coming off, I know my piece is clean.
Hanging Your Piece
I use the thinner jute string to hang my pieces or you can use the thicker style jute, but it’s up to you and your preferred style on if you want to use something other than jute, like ribbon, faux leather or just fishing line!