Hi there! Are you looking to get into creating stained glass? Not sure where to start or what you need? I’ve got you! I’ve compiled a list of all the things you need to have to get started.
I’ve organized this list by separating the supplies into categories for each step of the stained glass process. You can jump to each category by clicking on the links below.
Patterns
Glass Cutting and Grinding
Foiling
Soldering
Cleaning and Finishing
Extras
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PatternsPatterns
PLEASE do not copy any other artist’s patterns, including mine. There are plenty of pattern books you can purchase to create pieces for personal use. If you plan on selling your work, I suggest you start designing your own patterns.
Here are a couple pattern book options:Sketchbook
If you start drawing your own patterns, you’ll need a sketchbook. I prefer a hardcover sketchbook to protect my patterns I’ve spent countless hours on.Erasers
A quality eraser will be needed for those pesky mistakes when drawing patterns.Pencils
These are my favorite mechanical pencils.Rulers
Light Board
A light board is a must if you want to trace your patterns or photos when creating a pattern with.Pattern Shears
Pattern shears are not the easiest to use, and I don’t use these very often unless I’m creating a bigger piece that needs to be an exact size. These shears are double bladed and cut an extra bit off your pattern to save time grinding down the road or you can just use regular scissors.Glass Cutting and GrindingSafety Glasses
I personally love Stoggles and they’re prescription friendly. I’ve used this brand too and they’re decent for the price. ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN CUTTING GLASS AND SOLDERING!
I used to not wear them every time and I had a shard of glass land in the corner of my eye, and almost had solder pop into my eye also, it hit my cheek instead. I was dumb, don’t be like me!Glass
You’ll obviously need glass to get started on your stained glass journey. Picking out glass is by far one of my favorite parts. I would be doing you a disservice if I linked glass from amazon, so I suggest finding a glass store near you or ordering from an online store like Delphi, Franklin Art Glass, or Anything in Stained Glass (which is my go to).Glass Organizer
A glass organizer is a great thing to have when working on projects involving several colors. I keep mine right next to where I cut glass and have whatever colors I need sitting in this rack for easy access.Sharpies
For tracing your pattern onto glass. You can use thicker sharpies or thinner, which I prefer. However, thicker is easier for starting out. These click sharpies are life savers so you don’t have to keep taking off the top! Paint pens work well for this too.Glass Cutters
I love my pistol grip glass cutter or you can try the pencil style glass cutter.Running Pliers
I prefer 6″ Fletchers but the 8″ Fletchers come with an extra set of jaws or there are metal running pliers.Grozing Pliers
You’ll use grozer pliers for breaking off smaller pieces of glass.Set of Running and Grozing Pliers
If you decide you want metal running pliers instead of the Fletchers, here’s a set with both types of pliers.Waffle Grid
This waffle grid makes cutting your glass so much easier. The small scraps and shards will fall into the grid so when you go to cut your next piece, your glass will lay flat and not get scratched by the small shards.Grinder
THE Grinder is what I have, and yes, that’s the actual name of it! It is super easy to clean and I love it. Here’s a few other types of grinders, the Inland and the Gryphon. I’d do some research or watch a video of someone using the grinders to see which grinder would be best for you!FoilingCopper Foil
STUDIO PRO FOIL IS NOT GOOD FOIL! Edco is the best in my opinion. There are several sizes and colored backing of copper foil that will change depending on what glass and patina you want to use, so I listed the main 3 for both.
For sizes: 7/32 (I use this size the most), 3/16 (for skinnier glass), and 1/4 (for thicker glass).
For colored backing: Silver backing for no patina, black backed for black patina, and copper backed for copper patina.
Here are the links!
7/32: Black, Silver, Copper, 2 pack Copper (this is a cheaper option for copper backed foil)
Edco 3/16: Black, Silver, I couldn’t find a link for 3/16 copper foil
Edco 1/4: Black, Silver, Copper Fid
You’ll use this fid to burnish, or rub down, the copper foil onto the edges of the glass.Exacto Knife
You’ll need an exacto knife to trim the little “tails” on the copper foil where it overlaps.Clipboard
I have a clipboard that I stuck an adhesive cork sheet to that I use to burnish my glass on. When burnishing, you don’t want to push down too hard on your glass on top of a hard surface. So having the cork padding on a clipboard, or something similar, is a great way to avoid that.Lead Came
Like I said with the glass above, I suggest you go to a local glass store or order this from an online glass store like Delphi or Anything in Stained Glass. I recommend a little research for this too, as there are lots of different sizes and types. I use 3/16 square U came for framing bigger pieces, or 3/32 round U for smaller things. I really don’t use it a lot and typically stick to the copper foil method.SolderingSoldering Iron
A Hakko soldering iron is the way to go!Soldering Iron Stand
You’ll need a stand for your very hot soldering iron.Soldering Board
A heat resistant soldering board is the ideal surface to solder on.Fume Mask
Wearing a fume mask when soldering is important to prevent you from breathing in harmful toxins. I also use a fume extractor to filter the fumes away from me.Gel Flux
This is needed for the solder to stick to the copper foil. There are other types of flux, but I highly recommend the gel flux.Flux Brush
Brush the flux onto the foil with these flux brushes or really any paint brush will work for a little, but these will last longer!Solder
Amerway 60/40 is my favorite, but this particular link is a bit pricey, so here’s another brand that’s a little bit cheaper.Nippers
These nippers can be used for cutting lead came and wire.Copper Wire
I use copper wire to make my own hooks/ jump rings and for wire detail. I typically use 16 gauge copper wire for larger hooks and 18 gauge copper wire for smaller hooks and wire details.Rubber Gloves
Protect your hands from all of the harsh chemicals! I wear these rubber gloves when soldering, washing, and adding patina to pieces.Cleaning and FinishingFlux Remover
You’ll need this to neutralize and remove flux from pieces after soldering. 8oz bottle, 16oz bottle (better deal). Personally, I use flux remover after soldering, and again after scrubbing pieces with steel wool.Spray Bottle
Add a bit of the flux remover to a bottle with water to make it last longer! Plastic bottle and a glass bottle if you want to be nicer to the environment I re-used an old spray bottle that was lying around, so I recommend you do that if you can!Steel Wool
0000 steel wool for scrubbing those solder lines after cleaning with the flux remover and drying. Scrub them until they’re as shiny as can be!Patina
Wax
This wax is specifically for stained glass, Liva, but I personally just use Turtle Wax. Any carnauba wax will do!Microfiber Cloths
I use a microfiber cloth to buff the wax off of pieces once the wax has set. I like the fluffier style cloth in a lighter color so I can see what I’m rubbing off, and once nothing seems to be coming off, I know my piece is clean.Hanging Your Piece
I use the thinner jute string to hang my pieces or you can use the thicker style jute, but it’s up to you and your preferred style on if you want to use something other than jute, like ribbon, faux leather or just fishing line!ExtrasSoldering Tip Cleaner
This soldering tip cleaner cleans and extends the life of your soldering iron tipsScotch Brite Pads
Scotch Brite Pads come in handy for cleaning iron tip.Packing Material
I love this paper bubble wrap, it’s environmentally friendly!Handle With Care Stickers
Handle With Care Stickers are very important when shipping your work.Glass Paint
I use some very old glass paint that has actually been discontinued, but here’s a different brand of glass paint that a lot of stained glass artists use.Paint Brushes
You’ll need paint brushes if you decide to paint details on your glass. I prefer fine tip paint brushes for those tiny details, but here’s a pack that gives you options.
Patterns
PLEASE do not copy any other artist’s patterns, including mine. There are plenty of pattern books you can purchase to create pieces for personal use. If you plan on selling your work, I suggest you start designing your own patterns.
Here are a couple pattern book options:
Here are a couple pattern book options:
Sketchbook
If you start drawing your own patterns, you’ll need a sketchbook. I prefer a hardcover sketchbook to protect my patterns I’ve spent countless hours on.
Erasers
A quality eraser will be needed for those pesky mistakes when drawing patterns.
Pencils
These are my favorite mechanical pencils.
Rulers
Light Board
A light board is a must if you want to trace your patterns or photos when creating a pattern with.
Pattern Shears
Pattern shears are not the easiest to use, and I don’t use these very often unless I’m creating a bigger piece that needs to be an exact size. These shears are double bladed and cut an extra bit off your pattern to save time grinding down the road or you can just use regular scissors.
Safety Glasses
I personally love Stoggles and they’re prescription friendly. I’ve used this brand too and they’re decent for the price. ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN CUTTING GLASS AND SOLDERING!
I used to not wear them every time and I had a shard of glass land in the corner of my eye, and almost had solder pop into my eye also, it hit my cheek instead. I was dumb, don’t be like me!
I used to not wear them every time and I had a shard of glass land in the corner of my eye, and almost had solder pop into my eye also, it hit my cheek instead. I was dumb, don’t be like me!
Glass
You’ll obviously need glass to get started on your stained glass journey. Picking out glass is by far one of my favorite parts. I would be doing you a disservice if I linked glass from amazon, so I suggest finding a glass store near you or ordering from an online store like Delphi, Franklin Art Glass, or Anything in Stained Glass (which is my go to).
Glass Organizer
A glass organizer is a great thing to have when working on projects involving several colors. I keep mine right next to where I cut glass and have whatever colors I need sitting in this rack for easy access.
Sharpies
For tracing your pattern onto glass. You can use thicker sharpies or thinner, which I prefer. However, thicker is easier for starting out. These click sharpies are life savers so you don’t have to keep taking off the top! Paint pens work well for this too.
Glass Cutters
I love my pistol grip glass cutter or you can try the pencil style glass cutter.
Running Pliers
I prefer 6″ Fletchers but the 8″ Fletchers come with an extra set of jaws or there are metal running pliers.
Grozing Pliers
You’ll use grozer pliers for breaking off smaller pieces of glass.
Set of Running and Grozing Pliers
If you decide you want metal running pliers instead of the Fletchers, here’s a set with both types of pliers.
Waffle Grid
This waffle grid makes cutting your glass so much easier. The small scraps and shards will fall into the grid so when you go to cut your next piece, your glass will lay flat and not get scratched by the small shards.
Grinder
THE Grinder is what I have, and yes, that’s the actual name of it! It is super easy to clean and I love it. Here’s a few other types of grinders, the Inland and the Gryphon. I’d do some research or watch a video of someone using the grinders to see which grinder would be best for you!
FoilingCopper Foil
STUDIO PRO FOIL IS NOT GOOD FOIL! Edco is the best in my opinion. There are several sizes and colored backing of copper foil that will change depending on what glass and patina you want to use, so I listed the main 3 for both.
For sizes: 7/32 (I use this size the most), 3/16 (for skinnier glass), and 1/4 (for thicker glass).
For colored backing: Silver backing for no patina, black backed for black patina, and copper backed for copper patina.
Here are the links!
7/32: Black, Silver, Copper, 2 pack Copper (this is a cheaper option for copper backed foil)
Edco 3/16: Black, Silver, I couldn’t find a link for 3/16 copper foil
Edco 1/4: Black, Silver, Copper Fid
You’ll use this fid to burnish, or rub down, the copper foil onto the edges of the glass.Exacto Knife
You’ll need an exacto knife to trim the little “tails” on the copper foil where it overlaps.Clipboard
I have a clipboard that I stuck an adhesive cork sheet to that I use to burnish my glass on. When burnishing, you don’t want to push down too hard on your glass on top of a hard surface. So having the cork padding on a clipboard, or something similar, is a great way to avoid that.Lead Came
Like I said with the glass above, I suggest you go to a local glass store or order this from an online glass store like Delphi or Anything in Stained Glass. I recommend a little research for this too, as there are lots of different sizes and types. I use 3/16 square U came for framing bigger pieces, or 3/32 round U for smaller things. I really don’t use it a lot and typically stick to the copper foil method.SolderingSoldering Iron
A Hakko soldering iron is the way to go!Soldering Iron Stand
You’ll need a stand for your very hot soldering iron.Soldering Board
A heat resistant soldering board is the ideal surface to solder on.Fume Mask
Wearing a fume mask when soldering is important to prevent you from breathing in harmful toxins. I also use a fume extractor to filter the fumes away from me.Gel Flux
This is needed for the solder to stick to the copper foil. There are other types of flux, but I highly recommend the gel flux.Flux Brush
Brush the flux onto the foil with these flux brushes or really any paint brush will work for a little, but these will last longer!Solder
Amerway 60/40 is my favorite, but this particular link is a bit pricey, so here’s another brand that’s a little bit cheaper.Nippers
These nippers can be used for cutting lead came and wire.Copper Wire
I use copper wire to make my own hooks/ jump rings and for wire detail. I typically use 16 gauge copper wire for larger hooks and 18 gauge copper wire for smaller hooks and wire details.Rubber Gloves
Protect your hands from all of the harsh chemicals! I wear these rubber gloves when soldering, washing, and adding patina to pieces.Cleaning and FinishingFlux Remover
You’ll need this to neutralize and remove flux from pieces after soldering. 8oz bottle, 16oz bottle (better deal). Personally, I use flux remover after soldering, and again after scrubbing pieces with steel wool.Spray Bottle
Add a bit of the flux remover to a bottle with water to make it last longer! Plastic bottle and a glass bottle if you want to be nicer to the environment I re-used an old spray bottle that was lying around, so I recommend you do that if you can!Steel Wool
0000 steel wool for scrubbing those solder lines after cleaning with the flux remover and drying. Scrub them until they’re as shiny as can be!Patina
Wax
This wax is specifically for stained glass, Liva, but I personally just use Turtle Wax. Any carnauba wax will do!Microfiber Cloths
I use a microfiber cloth to buff the wax off of pieces once the wax has set. I like the fluffier style cloth in a lighter color so I can see what I’m rubbing off, and once nothing seems to be coming off, I know my piece is clean.Hanging Your Piece
I use the thinner jute string to hang my pieces or you can use the thicker style jute, but it’s up to you and your preferred style on if you want to use something other than jute, like ribbon, faux leather or just fishing line!ExtrasSoldering Tip Cleaner
This soldering tip cleaner cleans and extends the life of your soldering iron tipsScotch Brite Pads
Scotch Brite Pads come in handy for cleaning iron tip.Packing Material
I love this paper bubble wrap, it’s environmentally friendly!Handle With Care Stickers
Handle With Care Stickers are very important when shipping your work.Glass Paint
I use some very old glass paint that has actually been discontinued, but here’s a different brand of glass paint that a lot of stained glass artists use.Paint Brushes
You’ll need paint brushes if you decide to paint details on your glass. I prefer fine tip paint brushes for those tiny details, but here’s a pack that gives you options.
Copper Foil
STUDIO PRO FOIL IS NOT GOOD FOIL! Edco is the best in my opinion. There are several sizes and colored backing of copper foil that will change depending on what glass and patina you want to use, so I listed the main 3 for both.
For sizes: 7/32 (I use this size the most), 3/16 (for skinnier glass), and 1/4 (for thicker glass).
For colored backing: Silver backing for no patina, black backed for black patina, and copper backed for copper patina.
Here are the links!
7/32: Black, Silver, Copper, 2 pack Copper (this is a cheaper option for copper backed foil)
Edco 3/16: Black, Silver, I couldn’t find a link for 3/16 copper foil
Edco 1/4: Black, Silver, Copper
For sizes: 7/32 (I use this size the most), 3/16 (for skinnier glass), and 1/4 (for thicker glass).
For colored backing: Silver backing for no patina, black backed for black patina, and copper backed for copper patina.
Here are the links!
7/32: Black, Silver, Copper, 2 pack Copper (this is a cheaper option for copper backed foil)
Edco 3/16: Black, Silver, I couldn’t find a link for 3/16 copper foil
Edco 1/4: Black, Silver, Copper
Fid
You’ll use this fid to burnish, or rub down, the copper foil onto the edges of the glass.
Exacto Knife
You’ll need an exacto knife to trim the little “tails” on the copper foil where it overlaps.
Clipboard
I have a clipboard that I stuck an adhesive cork sheet to that I use to burnish my glass on. When burnishing, you don’t want to push down too hard on your glass on top of a hard surface. So having the cork padding on a clipboard, or something similar, is a great way to avoid that.
Lead Came
Like I said with the glass above, I suggest you go to a local glass store or order this from an online glass store like Delphi or Anything in Stained Glass. I recommend a little research for this too, as there are lots of different sizes and types. I use 3/16 square U came for framing bigger pieces, or 3/32 round U for smaller things. I really don’t use it a lot and typically stick to the copper foil method.
Soldering Iron
A Hakko soldering iron is the way to go!
Soldering Iron Stand
You’ll need a stand for your very hot soldering iron.
Soldering Board
A heat resistant soldering board is the ideal surface to solder on.
Fume Mask
Wearing a fume mask when soldering is important to prevent you from breathing in harmful toxins. I also use a fume extractor to filter the fumes away from me.
Gel Flux
This is needed for the solder to stick to the copper foil. There are other types of flux, but I highly recommend the gel flux.
Flux Brush
Brush the flux onto the foil with these flux brushes or really any paint brush will work for a little, but these will last longer!
Solder
Amerway 60/40 is my favorite, but this particular link is a bit pricey, so here’s another brand that’s a little bit cheaper.
Nippers
These nippers can be used for cutting lead came and wire.
Copper Wire
I use copper wire to make my own hooks/ jump rings and for wire detail. I typically use 16 gauge copper wire for larger hooks and 18 gauge copper wire for smaller hooks and wire details.
Rubber Gloves
Protect your hands from all of the harsh chemicals! I wear these rubber gloves when soldering, washing, and adding patina to pieces.
Cleaning and FinishingFlux Remover
You’ll need this to neutralize and remove flux from pieces after soldering. 8oz bottle, 16oz bottle (better deal). Personally, I use flux remover after soldering, and again after scrubbing pieces with steel wool.Spray Bottle
Add a bit of the flux remover to a bottle with water to make it last longer! Plastic bottle and a glass bottle if you want to be nicer to the environment I re-used an old spray bottle that was lying around, so I recommend you do that if you can!Steel Wool
0000 steel wool for scrubbing those solder lines after cleaning with the flux remover and drying. Scrub them until they’re as shiny as can be!Patina
Wax
This wax is specifically for stained glass, Liva, but I personally just use Turtle Wax. Any carnauba wax will do!Microfiber Cloths
I use a microfiber cloth to buff the wax off of pieces once the wax has set. I like the fluffier style cloth in a lighter color so I can see what I’m rubbing off, and once nothing seems to be coming off, I know my piece is clean.Hanging Your Piece
I use the thinner jute string to hang my pieces or you can use the thicker style jute, but it’s up to you and your preferred style on if you want to use something other than jute, like ribbon, faux leather or just fishing line!ExtrasSoldering Tip Cleaner
This soldering tip cleaner cleans and extends the life of your soldering iron tipsScotch Brite Pads
Scotch Brite Pads come in handy for cleaning iron tip.Packing Material
I love this paper bubble wrap, it’s environmentally friendly!Handle With Care Stickers
Handle With Care Stickers are very important when shipping your work.Glass Paint
I use some very old glass paint that has actually been discontinued, but here’s a different brand of glass paint that a lot of stained glass artists use.Paint Brushes
You’ll need paint brushes if you decide to paint details on your glass. I prefer fine tip paint brushes for those tiny details, but here’s a pack that gives you options.
Flux Remover
You’ll need this to neutralize and remove flux from pieces after soldering. 8oz bottle, 16oz bottle (better deal). Personally, I use flux remover after soldering, and again after scrubbing pieces with steel wool.
Spray Bottle
Add a bit of the flux remover to a bottle with water to make it last longer! Plastic bottle and a glass bottle if you want to be nicer to the environment I re-used an old spray bottle that was lying around, so I recommend you do that if you can!
Steel Wool
0000 steel wool for scrubbing those solder lines after cleaning with the flux remover and drying. Scrub them until they’re as shiny as can be!
Patina
Wax
This wax is specifically for stained glass, Liva, but I personally just use Turtle Wax. Any carnauba wax will do!
Microfiber Cloths
I use a microfiber cloth to buff the wax off of pieces once the wax has set. I like the fluffier style cloth in a lighter color so I can see what I’m rubbing off, and once nothing seems to be coming off, I know my piece is clean.
Hanging Your Piece
I use the thinner jute string to hang my pieces or you can use the thicker style jute, but it’s up to you and your preferred style on if you want to use something other than jute, like ribbon, faux leather or just fishing line!
Soldering Tip Cleaner
This soldering tip cleaner cleans and extends the life of your soldering iron tips
Scotch Brite Pads
Scotch Brite Pads come in handy for cleaning iron tip.
Packing Material
I love this paper bubble wrap, it’s environmentally friendly!
Handle With Care Stickers
Handle With Care Stickers are very important when shipping your work.
Glass Paint
I use some very old glass paint that has actually been discontinued, but here’s a different brand of glass paint that a lot of stained glass artists use.
Paint Brushes
You’ll need paint brushes if you decide to paint details on your glass. I prefer fine tip paint brushes for those tiny details, but here’s a pack that gives you options.
Thank you so much for making this! Really helps aspiring glass artist use their money wisely instead of having to buy 3 soldering irons
I’m so glad to know you’ve found it helpful!!